wollastoni wrote: ↑Thu Feb 22, 2024 8:29 am
A rare Agrias phalcidon fournierae form rebillardi. Even rarer than the typical rebillardi form, this is a bicolor form with purple below the red patch. There are few other bicolor rebillardi specimens known. The purple effect is due to a red suffusion mixed in the blue in these 2 cells...
Annarobertson1947 wrote: ↑Thu Feb 22, 2024 7:07 am
Im knowing Lydiae, fournierae, acraeoides are considered rarities, whats the consensus here of any other difficult to get species
I have a specimen of C. doubledayi that I consider myself rather fortunate to have obtained, several years ago. Certainly, it doesn't seem to be available very often as compared to many other Charaxes.
Cabintom posted some excellent photos of the species, here -
A rare Agrias phalcidon fournierae form rebillardi. Even rarer than the typical rebillardi form, this is a bicolor form with purple below the red patch. There are few other bicolor rebillardi specimens known. The purple effect is due to a red suffusion mixed in the blue in these 2 cells.
phalcidon-fournierae-rebillardi-bicolor.jpg (215.07 KiB) Viewed 26 times
It's been 2 weeks now since my leaf insect has eaten and she only moves now if I blow on her and her leg moves a bit. Please if anyone could help me save her I would greatly appreciate it. Is there a way to force feed them or anything because I'm ready to try anything to save her
Key to fabricating high quality drawers is using high quality wood. Start with scraps you will end with trash. Be sure lumber is seasoned and dry. Best selections in USA are: hard pines, medium to soft pines, basswood and poplar. Poor selections include: fir, redwood, cypress.
Best practice dictates is you make a batch of 20, 50, 100 drawers you must use a quality table saw with highest quality blades, e.g on a 10" dia blade, 100 carbide tipped teeth ( furniture grade blade). Beginning e.g. fabricating a batch of 50 drawers, Begin by cutting on the table saw, six foot lengths of 1" X 4" quality lumber into two lengthwise strips 6' X 3/4" X 1" and 6' X 3/4" X 2 3/16". Do not cut into four pieces for drawers until 100% of lengthwise cuts have been made to all 6' lengths of all 50 wood pieces. Then those cuts for 4 sides of drawers then can be mitered with 45º ends cut on a chop saw with carbide tip blade. Keep matching cut pieces together during entire fabrication process. If building a large batch of drawers at a time, many cuts can be made at a single saw setting. This also standardizes the size of each component for all the drawers in the batch. Further cut or groove pieces to dimensions listed for drawer base (part A) and drawer lid (part B). See drawing. Painting (or adhesive white paper) the drawer sides white will make your final result stand out above over those without white sides.
Here is a jpg from 25 years ago of myself in front of a few of the hundreds of these drawers I have fabricated. If you are surprised at the cost of commercially available drawers. Try making these yourself and see why the cost so much. I have made several batches of 100 drawers at a time, and it took me years of spare time to complete all of them with very good quality results.
Citation to search on web:
Brou Jr., Vernon A. 1992. Do it yourself Cornell-size specimen drawers. South. Lepid. News 14: 57-59.
Vernon Antoine Brou Jr. 11-11-2000-185%.jpg (392.85 KiB) Viewed 99 times
Here in SE Louisiana, USA this is a very common species. Most specimens were collected using ultraviolet light traps, the remainder utilizing fermenting bait traps, flight traps, and netting by hand. I have personally captured several thousand wild adults, the majority in automatic-capture mercury vapor light traps. About 25 years ago I published a one page species account on this species titled: Citation: Brou Jr., Vernon A. 2000. Parrhasius m-album (Lycaenidae) in Louisiana. South. Lepid. News 22: 31. In that publication I reported about 7 annual broods for P. m-album occurring mostly at 36-day intervals with adults occurring February-November. But in the intervening 25 years I have captured thousands more, now I can revise those 7 annual broods to probably 9 annual broods in all 12 months. That is the reason I have captured so very many, and the fact that my property here is filled with many different species of oak trees.
Many other species of hairstreaks here are single brooded annually. Despite that, the fact that i have operated numerous light traps continuously for the past 55 years, I have captured hundreds to thousands of those as well. One other hairstreak (Calycopis cecrops) has four annual broods. Attached is the species account published 19 years ago. This species is extremely abundant in automatic capture mercury vapor light traps. In fact i have captured 250 adults in a single night in my light traps.
2005. 106. Calycopis cecrops (F.) in Louisiana. redo.jpg (311.61 KiB) Viewed 106 times
DSCF4173 use this one 30%.jpg (725.59 KiB) Viewed 106 times
As you say it is wise to probably relax/reset the more valuable specimens. This could probably be easily done with as little as five or six hours spent in any relaxer.
The first method used on the Lycaena may have been "painstaking" but, once you found the old pinhole it was just a matter of "following through" carefully. Sounds like the way to go with all of the fairly small butterflies. That way less chance of a loss of legs.
The other method used on the parnassius would not work well for things on a smaller scale because you will either crush them between your fingers or you will hopelessly knock off ALL the remaining legs.
Time and Patience are your best friends here.
Look forward to seeing some of these wonderful OLD specimens on pins and in a drawer, unitray or schmidt box --- which you can show us when you are further along.
Here's an update - and thanks to everyone for their helpful suggestions! Using magnification I did in fact find that the smaller specimens (coppers, hairstreaks, some Pierieds, and most Satyrids) were pinned at one time. All of the others had not been pinned. I decided to experiment with an 82 year old male Lycaena rubidus specimen which I secured it to a spreading board with pinning strips. I then placed the tip of "0" stainless steel pin into the top of the existing hole and tried to find the old pathway through the thorax. It took a little while but the pin finally dropped in place without much pressure. I then slid the butterfly to about 1/2 inch (12 mm) from the head of the pin.
I then tried to pin an 80 year old Parnassius clodius specimen by holding it in my fingers and pushing the pin through. The pin broke through the surface of the thorax quite easily but then hit some resistance. That's when I got thinking that I should have softened it up first with a small amount of gin. The pin eventually found a route through the thorax and out of the body. Nothing was broken or damaged and I was quite happy. The only issue was that the pin wasn't quite as perpendicular to the body as I had hoped.
All in all I'm happy with the results so far. I think that I'll probably fully relax some of the more valuable specimens and pre-soften the thorax on others. Thanks again for all of the input - I appreciate it.
Note* Not sure why the color difference are so great in the first two photos - I can assure you that it is the same butterfly.