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Topic: Agrias butterflies | Author: wollastoni | Replies: 120 | Views: 7995
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wollastoni
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Re: Agrias butterflies

by wollastoni » Thu Feb 22, 2024 8:29 am

Long time I didn't post anything here.

A rare Agrias phalcidon fournierae form rebillardi. Even rarer than the typical rebillardi form, this is a bicolor form with purple below the red patch. There are few other bicolor rebillardi specimens known. The purple effect is due to a red suffusion mixed in the blue in these 2 cells.
phalcidon-fournierae-rebillardi-bicolor.jpg
phalcidon-fournierae-rebillardi-bicolor.jpg (215.07 KiB) Viewed 3 times
From Maues Miri, Brazil.

More information about the wonderful Agrias phalcidon fournierae on the Agrias website : https://agrias-butterflies.com/agrias-p ... ournierae/
Topic: Rarities in Charaxes | Author: Annarobertson1947 | Replies: 1 | Views: 6
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Rarities in Charaxes

by Annarobertson1947 » Thu Feb 22, 2024 7:07 am

Im knowing Lydiae, fournierae, acraeoides are considered rarities, whats the consensus here of any other difficult to get species
Topic: HELP my leaf insect is dying | Author: Treg | Replies: 2 | Views: 14
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Re: HELP my leaf insect is dying

by livingplanet3 » Wed Feb 21, 2024 11:18 pm

You might try asking the Phasmid Study Group, an organization that has existed since 1980 -

https://phasmidstudygroup.org/
Topic: HELP my leaf insect is dying | Author: Treg | Replies: 2 | Views: 14
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HELP my leaf insect is dying

by Treg » Wed Feb 21, 2024 8:25 pm

It's been 2 weeks now since my leaf insect has eaten and she only moves now if I blow on her and her leg moves a bit. Please if anyone could help me save her I would greatly appreciate it. Is there a way to force feed them or anything because I'm ready to try anything to save her
Topic: DIY CORNELL_SIZE glass top drawers - How to >>> | Author: vabrou | Replies: 3 | Views: 82
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Re: DIY CORNELL_SIZE glass top drawers - How to >>>

by vabrou » Wed Feb 21, 2024 2:26 am

58chevy ... no
Topic: DIY CORNELL_SIZE glass top drawers - How to >>> | Author: vabrou | Replies: 3 | Views: 82
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Re: DIY CORNELL_SIZE glass top drawers - How to >>>

by 58chevy » Tue Feb 20, 2024 3:37 pm

Do you sell drawers?
Topic: DIY CORNELL_SIZE glass top drawers - How to >>> | Author: vabrou | Replies: 3 | Views: 82
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DIY CORNELL_SIZE glass top drawers - How to >>>

by vabrou » Tue Feb 20, 2024 3:21 pm

I have fabricated these wooden glass top drawers for over a half century. Link to freely accessible detailed instructions to make high quality drawers:

https://www.academia.edu/30703260/Do_it ... en_drawers

Key to fabricating high quality drawers is using high quality wood. Start with scraps you will end with trash. Be sure lumber is seasoned and dry. Best selections in USA are: hard pines, medium to soft pines, basswood and poplar. Poor selections include: fir, redwood, cypress.

Best practice dictates is you make a batch of 20, 50, 100 drawers you must use a quality table saw with highest quality blades, e.g on a 10" dia blade, 100 carbide tipped teeth ( furniture grade blade). Beginning e.g. fabricating a batch of 50 drawers, Begin by cutting on the table saw, six foot lengths of 1" X 4" quality lumber into two lengthwise strips 6' X
3/4" X 1" and 6' X 3/4" X 2 3/16". Do not cut into four pieces for drawers until 100% of lengthwise cuts have been made to all 6' lengths of all 50 wood pieces. Then those cuts for 4 sides of drawers then can be mitered with 45º ends cut on a chop saw with carbide tip blade.
Keep matching cut pieces together during entire fabrication process. If building a large batch of drawers at a time, many cuts can be made at a single saw setting. This also standardizes the size of each component for all the drawers in the batch. Further cut or groove pieces to dimensions listed for drawer base (part A) and drawer lid (part B). See drawing. Painting (or adhesive white paper) the drawer sides white will make your final result stand out above over those without white sides.

Here is a jpg from 25 years ago of myself in front of a few of the hundreds of these drawers I have fabricated. If you are surprised at the cost of commercially available drawers. Try making these yourself and see why the cost so much. I have made several batches of 100 drawers at a time, and it took me years of spare time to complete all of them with very good quality results.

Citation to search on web:
Brou Jr., Vernon A. 1992. Do it yourself Cornell-size specimen drawers. South. Lepid. News 14: 57-59.

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Vernon Antoine Brou Jr.  11-11-2000-185%.jpg
Vernon Antoine Brou Jr. 11-11-2000-185%.jpg (392.85 KiB) Viewed 82 times
Topic: Gyno or Just Variation? | Author: joachim | Replies: 3 | Views: 102
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Re: Gyno or Just Variation?

by Cabintom » Tue Feb 20, 2024 1:25 pm

Looks like an aberration to me.
Topic: Gyno or Just Variation? | Author: joachim | Replies: 3 | Views: 102
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Re: Gyno or Just Variation?

by wollastoni » Tue Feb 20, 2024 8:08 am

Looks like an ab to me but I am not an expert of this genus.
Topic: White-M Hairstreak (Parrhasius m-album) | Author: Trehopr1 | Replies: 15 | Views: 9023
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Re: White-M Hairstreak (Parrhasius m-album)

by vabrou » Tue Feb 20, 2024 2:13 am

Here in SE Louisiana, USA this is a very common species. Most specimens were collected using ultraviolet light traps, the remainder utilizing fermenting bait traps, flight traps, and netting by hand. I have personally captured several thousand wild adults, the majority in automatic-capture mercury vapor light traps. About 25 years ago I published a one page species account on this species titled: Citation: Brou Jr., Vernon A. 2000. Parrhasius m-album (Lycaenidae) in Louisiana. South. Lepid. News 22: 31. In that publication I reported about 7 annual broods for P. m-album occurring mostly at 36-day intervals with adults occurring February-November. But in the intervening 25 years I have captured thousands more, now I can revise those 7 annual broods to probably 9 annual broods in all 12 months. That is the reason I have captured so very many, and the fact that my property here is filled with many different species of oak trees.

Many other species of hairstreaks here are single brooded annually. Despite that, the fact that i have operated numerous light traps continuously for the past 55 years, I have captured hundreds to thousands of those as well. One other hairstreak (Calycopis cecrops) has four annual broods. Attached is the species account published 19 years ago. This species is extremely abundant in automatic capture mercury vapor light traps. In fact i have captured 250 adults in a single night in my light traps.
Attachments
2005. 106. Calycopis cecrops (F.) in Louisiana. redo.jpg
2005. 106. Calycopis cecrops (F.) in Louisiana. redo.jpg (311.61 KiB) Viewed 89 times
DSCF4173 use this one 30%.jpg
DSCF4173 use this one 30%.jpg (725.59 KiB) Viewed 89 times
Topic: Gyno or Just Variation? | Author: joachim | Replies: 3 | Views: 102
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Gyno or Just Variation?

by joachim » Mon Feb 19, 2024 11:53 am

https://www.ebay.de/itm/133338438218?mk ... media=COPY


Hi, i wonder whether this ist a gynander or just an abberation.
Opinions are welcome. Thanks Joachim
Topic: Question about pinning spread Lepidoptera | Author: Papilio_indra | Replies: 12 | Views: 240
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Re: Question about pinning spread Lepidoptera

by Trehopr1 » Mon Feb 19, 2024 3:05 am

Very nice to hear of these early successes.

As you say it is wise to probably relax/reset the more valuable specimens. This could probably be easily done with as little as five or six hours spent in any relaxer.

The first method used on the Lycaena may have been "painstaking" but, once you found the old pinhole it was just a matter of "following through" carefully. Sounds like the way to go with all of the fairly small butterflies. That way less chance of a loss of legs.

The other method used on the parnassius would not work well for things on a smaller scale because you will either crush them between your fingers or you will hopelessly knock off ALL the remaining legs.

Time and Patience are your best friends here.

Look forward to seeing some of these wonderful OLD specimens on pins and in a drawer, unitray or schmidt box --- which you can show us when you are further along. 🙏☺️
Topic: Question about pinning spread Lepidoptera | Author: Papilio_indra | Replies: 12 | Views: 240
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Re: Question about pinning spread Lepidoptera

by Papilio_indra » Mon Feb 19, 2024 1:27 am

Here's an update - and thanks to everyone for their helpful suggestions! Using magnification I did in fact find that the smaller specimens (coppers, hairstreaks, some Pierieds, and most Satyrids) were pinned at one time. All of the others had not been pinned. I decided to experiment with an 82 year old male Lycaena rubidus specimen which I secured it to a spreading board with pinning strips. I then placed the tip of "0" stainless steel pin into the top of the existing hole and tried to find the old pathway through the thorax. It took a little while but the pin finally dropped in place without much pressure. I then slid the butterfly to about 1/2 inch (12 mm) from the head of the pin.

I then tried to pin an 80 year old Parnassius clodius specimen by holding it in my fingers and pushing the pin through. The pin broke through the surface of the thorax quite easily but then hit some resistance. That's when I got thinking that I should have softened it up first with a small amount of gin. The pin eventually found a route through the thorax and out of the body. Nothing was broken or damaged and I was quite happy. The only issue was that the pin wasn't quite as perpendicular to the body as I had hoped.

All in all I'm happy with the results so far. I think that I'll probably fully relax some of the more valuable specimens and pre-soften the thorax on others. Thanks again for all of the input - I appreciate it.

Note* Not sure why the color difference are so great in the first two photos - I can assure you that it is the same butterfly.
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pinned2.jpg
pinned2.jpg (484.87 KiB) Viewed 74 times
pinned3.jpg
pinned3.jpg (137.67 KiB) Viewed 74 times
pinned5.jpg
pinned5.jpg (299.45 KiB) Viewed 74 times
Topic: Question about pinning spread Lepidoptera | Author: Papilio_indra | Replies: 12 | Views: 240
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Re: Question about pinning spread Lepidoptera

by Trehopr1 » Sun Feb 18, 2024 5:21 pm

Please do let us know what seems to work best and how things turn out !☺️
Topic: Question about pinning spread Lepidoptera | Author: Papilio_indra | Replies: 12 | Views: 240
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Re: Question about pinning spread Lepidoptera

by Paul K » Sun Feb 18, 2024 3:59 am

I would also relaxed and spread the specimens.
This is the only safe metod. I did it to my entire collection about six years ago changing all black and some old steel pins to proper size stainless steel and included all laser print labels. It took me several months as there was about 1000 specimens to work on but that was definitely worth it.
Topic: Question about pinning spread Lepidoptera | Author: Papilio_indra | Replies: 12 | Views: 240
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Re: Question about pinning spread Lepidoptera

by 58chevy » Sun Feb 18, 2024 12:57 am

My guess is that many of the legs have already broken off from being pressed into the cotton. If that is the case and you don't mind losing a few more, just hold the specimen by the underside of the thorax (as described by Bill Garthe) and insert the pin into the top of the thorax. I've done this numerous times without damaging anything but the legs. No re-relaxing is necessary unless you are determined to preserve the legs. I usually use a #2 or #3 pin. Smaller pins tend to bend or spin after insertion.
Topic: HELP leaf insect hasn't eaten in over a week | Author: Treg | Replies: 4 | Views: 62
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Re: HELP leaf insect hasn't eaten in over a week

by livingplanet3 » Sat Feb 17, 2024 8:33 pm

wollastoni wrote: Sat Feb 17, 2024 10:23 am livingplanet3 < I didn't know that, thanks for the info.
There's a theory that cutting the edges of the host plant simulates the damage caused by nymphs chewing, and so might possibly encourage them to feed. Also, it may cause the release of volatile compounds that the nymphs will respond to. I've wondered if this method might also be applicable to the larvae of Lepidoptera.
Topic: Question about pinning spread Lepidoptera | Author: Papilio_indra | Replies: 12 | Views: 240
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Re: Question about pinning spread Lepidoptera

by evra » Sat Feb 17, 2024 7:16 pm

Most of what holds the wings in place is the dried muscles at the joint between the wings and the thorax. So by relaxing the thorax, you relax those and the wings will instantly droop. In my opinion, with how fragile/brittle dried specimens are, you should just relax the whole thing and repin it. You'll likely destroy the specimen otherwise. Usually moving something from pinned to a Riker mount is a one-way trip.
Topic: Question about pinning spread Lepidoptera | Author: Papilio_indra | Replies: 12 | Views: 240
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Re: Question about pinning spread Lepidoptera

by Papilio_indra » Sat Feb 17, 2024 5:21 pm

Thanks Panacanthus for that suggestion, although I did look initially for holes in the thorax I will check more closely this afternoon to see if they were in fact pinned at one time. These specimens were prepared by a teenager during WW2 who probably didn't have access to, or couldn't afford, insect pins. It is interesting to note that I cannot tell how the forewings were advanced to their right angle positions as there are no pin holes or minor flaws typically associated with pulling the forewings forward when using the pin behind the heavy vein method.

Bill I like your ideas of twisting the pin and possibly using a small drop of gin to soften things up. Also after visualizing what you've described, I'm thinking of placing the specimen on a mounting board and holding the wings in place with weighted microscope slides and then inserting the pin. I'm concerned that if I try to hold the base of thorax in my fingers I may break off several of the legs. Thanks for the tips!
Topic: Question about pinning spread Lepidoptera | Author: Papilio_indra | Replies: 12 | Views: 240
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Re: Question about pinning spread Lepidoptera

by billgarthe » Sat Feb 17, 2024 2:58 pm

First….dodouble check to see if there are holes on the top of the thorax.

While size 0 pins would work, I’d tend to use size 2 to do the job. Size 0 will leave the specimen in drawer a bit “springy” which could go “boing” and snap off an abdomen or antenna. The trick (and I’ve done hundreds this way) is to twist the pin like a screw when inserting. I used to use styrofoam as a base, but have come to actually hold the base of the thorax with my two fingers. This prevents the specimen from moving from side to side as you insert. Just be careful as once in a great while, one can stick themself in the process. You could also place a super tiny drop of gin on the spot (top of thorax) you’re going to put the pin in and wait a minute or two, then proceed to twist the pin in. Patience is the key. Don’t “force” the pin in, just let it gradually penetrate at its own pace. Forcing will crack/break the surface which could spell disaster.